THE QUIETER CYCLADES
The islands worth knowing
For clients after beauty and atmosphere, Solenn consistently recommends a cluster that works naturally as an itinerary: Milos, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, and for those wanting to go further, the Small Cyclades southeast of Naxos, including Koufonisia and Iraklia.
Naxos and Paros offer something close to the classic Cycladic experience. "You'll still have a great selection of tavernas and restaurants, gorgeous little boutiques," says Solenn. "But it's more scattered, looser. There's more space." Antiparos steps it down another notch, separated from Paros by a narrow channel where kite surfers work the wind and the port retains an unhurried tempo.
Then there is Milos. Its volcanic coastline is dramatic: jagged white cliffs, multi-coloured sand beaches, coves that look unlike anywhere else in the Mediterranean. The Kleftiko sea caves on the island's southwestern tip are accessible only by sea, a complex of rock arches and underwater formations where the water runs a shade of turquoise that photographs struggle to capture accurately. Day boats go there at peak hours, forty passengers at a time. A private yacht goes at first light. "When the sunlight hits it just right, it is spectacular," says Solenn. "And you can have it entirely to yourself."
And of course, for those searching for a vibrant party scene then Mykonos and Santorini never disappoint. The Cyclades really offer something for everyone.
THE QUIETER CYCLADES
What a yacht gives you that nothing else does
On the quieter islands, the road network is limited. Dirt tracks, rocky coastlines and dramatic terrain mean that many of the best anchorages and swimming spots are simply not reachable overland. "When you get to these quieter islands, you're very likely to be alone," says Solenn. The flexibility that comes with a private yacht matters more in this part of the Cyclades than almost anywhere else. Greek captains, Solenn explains, rarely forecast conditions more than six hours ahead, and the Aegean can shift quickly. The approach is to plan the route the evening before, make peace with an alternative, and wake up to see what the morning offers. "You have a lazy breakfast, a morning swim, a wakeboard with one of the deckhands, and then you decide where to go for lunch," she says. If the wind builds, find a shaded taverna terrace ashore. If it drops away, stay at anchor and let the afternoon come to you.
It is also the kind of cruising where the best discoveries are entirely unplanned. "You round a headland and find three small, whitewashed houses on a beach, and it turns out they're a taverna," says Solenn. "The dad has just pulled in with his fishing boat. The whole family is cooking. They offer you ouzo on the terrace and grill whatever was caught that morning. You feel like you've taken a step back in time."
THE QUIETER CYCLADES
A word about the Meltemi, and why you should listen to your broker and captain
The Meltemi is the wind that experienced Cyclades charterers know about and first-timers tend to underestimate. In July and August, it can arrive with very little warning, hold larger yachts in port for days and reroute even the most carefully planned itinerary. "When we advise people there are strong winds, they don't always take us seriously," says Solenn, with a frankness that comes from experience. "And then when their itineraries get completely rerouted, they realise I should have listened." The key is to remain flexible and open minded. Your captain will always know best.
June and September are the months Solenn recommends most often. Fewer crowds and a clarity of light that makes this part of the world so visually arresting. October works well too, particularly for clients who want near-empty anchorages and tavernas.
THE QUIETER CYCLADES
The charter that stays with you
One charter experience in particular has lodged itself in Solenn's memory. A client with a teenage son who was keen on adventure, and in particular spearfishing. They were south-east of Naxos, in the waters around Koufonisia and Iraklia, where rocky seabeds and underwater formations create exactly the kind of habitat that makes for excellent spearfishing. Solenn arranged for one of Greece's top competitive freedivers to come aboard for two days as a guide. "It was an incredibly unique experience," she says. Something that cannot be replicated from a hotel room or organised by ferry. It required a yacht, a flexible schedule and someone who knew precisely where to go.
That is, in essence, what this corner of the Cyclades offers. A different take on the Greek island dream. One that rewards the curious, suits those who prefer their glamour low-key, and makes lasting memories.
