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Close your eyes. Hear someone say ‘The Amalfi Coast’, and your mind’s eye will likely summon images of richly forested mountains plunging into a sparkling sea, of steep terraces planted with olive and citrus trees, of pink marble villas and ancient cathedrals spilling down scented green hillsides.
Nestled along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula, in the Campania region, the Amalfi Coast is a world of fabled cliffs, historic architecture and secret sandy bays. It’s no surprise that the region was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997, or that millions of visitors flock here each summer to soak up some of its craggy, sun-splashed specialness.
But what happens in Amalfi beyond its knockout scenery? Beyond pristine sun-loungers in Positano, long limoncello-soaked evenings in Sorrento, or Instagram shots on the steps of the Duomo di Sant-Andrea in Amalfi town? Is there such a thing as off-the-beaten-Amalfi-track? And if so, how to find it? This guide is designed to look beyond the cover-shot splendour of the Amalfi Coast and distil something of the essence within… starting with a plate of homemade gnocchi at a family-owned restaurant in the hills.
The Amalfi Coast runs from Sorrento to Salerno, and for many visitors arriving by yacht, Positano is the natural place to begin. It is the postcard image of the region: cascading pastel houses, bougainvillea-draped terraces and some of Italy’s most celebrated hotels. One of its finest dining experiences is Zass, the Michelin-starred restaurant at Il San Pietro di Positano. Perched on the cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, it pairs panoramic views with elegant Campanian cuisine, showcasing produce from the hotel's own gardens alongside the freshest local seafood. Whether for a leisurely lunch or sunset dinner, Zass embodies the understated sophistication of the Amalfi Coast.
When Maria Terese de Filippis was growing up her brothers mocked her for liking cars, saying she’d never be able to drive fast because she was a girl. At 22, she entered her first race, a hillclimb event at Amalfi’s Salerno-Cava dei Tirreni. Maria, in a Fiat 500, won the race, a victory that would ignite a life-long passion and set her on the road to becoming the first ever woman to compete in a Formula One world championship race. Today, driving on the Amalfi Coast is just as exhilarating, and should you find yourself flying around hair-raising hillside bends with the wind in your hair and the cobalt blue ocean far below you, think of Maria, the first ever woman of racing.
The Path of the Gods is justifiably the most famous hike on the Amalfi Coast, a 6km trail that winds through terraced vineyards and ancient villages, with some of the finest views on the coastline. But the Sentiero dei Monaci ('Path of the Monks') is every bit as spectacular and far less crowded. Starting in the beachside hamlet of Erchie, the 11km route winds towards Maiori, passing the Uomo a Cavallo ('Man on a Horse') rock formation, the secluded village of Badia, and the ancient pilgrim path to the Avvocata Sanctuary. Along the way, chestnut woods, oak forests and lemon groves give way to sweeping views from Mount Avvocata, where the coastline seems to stretch endlessly into the distance. Look closely and you might even spot your yacht below.
If lying on a beach or eating gourmet food isn’t your thing, then a spot of viticulture might be. Especially if it’s tasting delicious local wine that has been heroically produced on some of the most difficult terrain in the Mediterranean. The Marisa Cuomo Winery’s ten hectares rise to an altitude of 1000-metres, and the vines sprout horizontally from terraced dry stone walls, on almost inconceivably steep slopes overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. With their sunny southern exposure, volcanic and alluvial soil bed, and unique microclimate caused by ocean currents, mountain winds and high-pressure systems, the grapes give rise to wonderful, unique wines that express the rarity of the setting. A tour of the winery, vineyards and atmospheric mountain caves where the wine is stored, followed by a lunch and wine pairing, takes around three hours. You won’t be disappointed.
The Amalfi Coast is a place that loves to celebrate. Throughout the year, its villages come alive with open-air concerts, religious processions, food festivals and fireworks that spill across the sea. Summer is particularly lively, from the world-famous Ravello Festival to Positano's celebrations of San Vito and Ferragosto, while autumn brings a slower pace and harvest festivals in the hills above the coast. Time your visit right and you may find that the most memorable part of your journey is not a beach or a vista, but the chance to experience the Amalfi Coast as the locals do.
While the Amalfi Coast is famed for its dramatic roads and cliffside villages, some of its greatest pleasures are found on the water. Drop anchor beneath Capri's iconic Faraglioni sea stacks before slipping into the clear waters that surround them, or spend the afternoon swimming off Marina Grande, one of the island's most beautiful bays. Along the mainland coast, the secluded cove of Santa Croce, accessible primarily by boat, offers a quieter alternative to Amalfi's busier beaches, while the tiny beach at Laurito remains a favourite local escape below Positano's cliffs.
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Where you'll find us
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+377 93 50 12 12London — UK
+44 20 7584 1801Fort Lauderdale — US
+1 954 278 3970Auckland — NZ
+64 9 281 5133Contact us
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